12/27/2011

Chiang Rai

Our first vacation while living in Thailand. We decided to go to an area of Thailand neither one of us has been to.  We both loved Chiang Mai (in northern Thailand) so we decided to go a bit further north and go to Chiang Rai and explore the Golden Triangle area; where Thailand, Myanmar and Laos come together at the Mekong River.  We were not disappointed.  Chiang Rai city is a lot more quiet than Chiang Mai.  The atmosphere is laid back and the city is not over ran with tourists or big hotels.  The weather was gorgeous; the mornings were cool enough to wear a light jacket (of course cool to a westerner is cold to a Thai so the Thais wore coats and hats in the morning). 

We stayed at a hotel that was a bout a ten minute tuk tuk drive to the center of the city.  I picked this hotel because of their beautiful gardens.  And again I was not disappointed.  The hotel was nice and simple with gorgeous gardens.



Thai Cooking Class with Suwanee

This was a blast.  We were her only students for the day so we had Suwanee all to ourselves.  She was a delightful woman with an interesting story.  She is from Chiang Rai and has travelled the world and lived in several places (including New York, Netherlands, and Brazil).  She decided to come back to Chiang Rai to open up a Thai cooking school.  She picked us up in her jeep and took us to our first stop.... the local outdoor market.  There are many fresh markets in Thailand (Korat has a couple) where local Thais shop for food and clothes.  I admit that I have been too timid to shop at the local markets for food so it was great to go with a Thai and shop for ingredients together.  We picked out our menu (red chicken curry, chicken coconut soup, pork with sweet basil, and steamed bananas) and then made our shopping list.

The local market in Chiang Rai is a great way to see people from the hill tribes.  There are six hill tribes that live in the Chiang Rai Provence (Akha, Yao, Meo, Lisu, Lahu, and Karen).  Hill Tribes live in the mountains of Northern Thailand near the borders of Thailand, Myanmar, and Laos.  They are descendants of migratory peoples from Myanmar, Tibet, and China.  They follow forms of ancestral worship and are animists (they believe in a world of spirits that inhabit everything).  Several of the Tribes used to farm opium which the Thai government has tried curtail through reform programs (new they farm other produce or make scarfs & purses to try to sell to tourists). 

Suwanee was able to point out to us individuals from different tribes.  The women wear purses that are indicative of their tribes (also, sometimes she could tell from facial features).  She explained that some of the tribes come into town once a week to go to the market (some of them travel about three hours in the back of a pick-up truck to come). 

Suwanee had us follow her around the market and taste test different fruits and foods.  The vendors joke around with her and know her well.

To our delight the cooking class was in her house in a rural setting.  She had the kitchen set up with cooking stations.  We had so much fun cooking and the food turned out amazing.  Now, the real test... can I repeat it on my own (with Colin's help of course).  I need to buy a wok first, but my goal is that when I get back from Hong Kong I am going to go to the local market in Korat and cook up a storm.


Section of market gov. appointed for Akha Tribe only

Next time he tells you he can't cook - don't believe him
 





Wat Rong Khun

A contemporary Buddhist temple designed by a famous Chiang Rai artist named Chalermchai Kositpipat, construction is still ongoing.  It is completely white with depictions of Buddha, enlightenment, hell, and temptations.  Suwanee told us that the artist not only volunteered his services but donates a lot of money to pay people from the local tribe to work there (clean it & continue building it).  His studio is actually on the grounds, we were very impressed with his paintings.  It was obvious that Suwanee admired Chalermchai Kositpipat very much.  Many of the local girls leave school and go to Bangkok to enter into prostitution to support their family.  One of his goals was to provide work to the locals to prevent this from happening. 

I have never seen a temple like this.  It was both amazing and a little strange. When you walked into the temple you were looking at huge Buddha (typical of temples here) and murals of enlightenment.  The back wall had a mural with a demon and modern day temptations and evil.  There was some strange things in the mural when you looked closely - Michael Jackson, Kung Fu Panda, George Bush riding a rocket, twin towers on fire, to name a few.

 
 
 Boat Ride on the Mae Kok River

We took a three hour peaceful boat ride on the Mae Kok River.  The scenery was beautiful and I was amazed at how uninhabited the landscape was.  It was a lovely boat ride and a chance to get some nice fresh air (when traveling on the canals/river in Bangkok you often do not want to breath too deeply...or look too closely at the water).

Lunch before the boat ride


Our boat

The Chiang Rai Clock Tower

Colin and I love little unexpected surprises when we travel.  Things we did not plan on nor had ever heard of and it turns out really cool. This is how the clock tower was.  When we were at the Wat Rong Kuhn (White Temple) Suwanee told us that the clock tower in the center of Chaing Rai was designed by the same artist that designed the temple.  Then she casually mentioned that there is a light show at 7:00, 8:00, and 9:00 p.m. Later that night we took a tuk tuk into town for dinner and decided to check out this light show first. We expected to be underwhelmed.  Instead it was awesome! The clock tower itself was an amazing piece of art.  Then at 8:00 p.m. music played over loud speakers and the tower started to turn different colors... all very nice.  We were watching one of the corners of the tower and a Thai man standing next to us noticed so he motioned for us to move and stand in front of the tower... and we saw why - this gold metal lotus flower descended from inside the center of the clock tower and opened up, then some globe came out of the flower... needless to say we were impressed and came back the next night.  Unfortunately the pictures of the lotus were to blurry to post... just have to take my word for it.


 Other Photos of our Chiang Rai Trip:


Girl from Karen Hill Tribe weaving



 


Tribal village - gate & figurine protect against evil spirits



Northern most point of Thailand

Entry point of Myanmar


Crossing b/w Myanmar & Thailand


Golden Triangle - Laos, Myanmar, & Thailand



Young Monks going for a boat ride

Wat Chedi Luang - 13th century

12/13/2011

Crazy for Bangkok

Right now I am having an I love Bangkok moment. It is evening and 77 degrees (cooler than normal), I have the windows wide open and a magnificent view of the city lights (27th floor view).  The breeze is lovely.  It is easy to love the city right now. My camera does not take great night photos (and the photo would not capture the true essence of my view anyway), so here are some photos that I took at twilight instead:



 


I have been in Bangkok for 6 days straight now (did not go back to Korat) and will stay until we leave for vacation on the 18th.

I have really enjoyed how exotic Thailand can be and the differences it has from home.  However, since I am living here I have made attempts to search out some activities that I liked to do at home, and it is much easier to find these in Bangkok than Korat.  I found a pilates studio that I went to over the weekend and I now have someone to play tennis with.  Today I went to the movies with some friends, there is a nearby theater that I can walk to, most of the movies are in English with Thai subtitles.  We were introduced to a cute Mexican restaurant within walking distance.  I think this place may be my favorite Mexican restaurant right now... and it is in the middle of Bangkok!

It is hard to be in the holiday mood when the average high in the upper 80s (believe it or not this is considered Thailand's cool season).  I did attend a fun Christmas party with other expat women the other night - with a gift exchange game and free bellinis - this helped put me in the holiday mood and who doesn't like unlimited bellinis?  The majority of Thais are Buddhist and do not celebrate Christmas.  However, there are Christmas trees everywhere in Bangkok (especially in the shopping and financial districts).  These Christmas trees are huge, also all of the stores are playing Christmas carols. 

Colin has been such a great sport on the weekends.  Every weekend I plan at least one adventure.  My task is to pick the adventure and plan how we are to get there.  Last weekend I decided we were going to take a water taxi down a canal (klong) and then explore an area that has a lot of temples.  This water taxi is used by the Thais for transportation - kind of a city bus on water.  It was a blast, not to mention very cheap (around 50cents each).  Not only is it fun to be use the transportation that Thais use but it is also very interesting as the canals are lined with Thai houses, with several Thais 'hanging out" behind their houses.


Once we arrived at our destination, Bang Lamphu & Rattanakosin district, we hopped on a tuk tuk to visit some of the temples.  We decided to avoid the biggest tourist areas (Grand Palace and Wat Po) and to only explore a few sites.  We are saving some of the big hitters (like the Grand Palace) for when people come to visit.

Here are some photos from the day's adventure (once off the klong water taxi - which was an adventure all on it's own):

 

Phra Sumen Fort

Standing Buddha at Wat Indraviharn


mural in Wat (wat means temple)



Wat Benjamabophit - Marble Temple




 


holy tree


Golden Mount - climbed 82 steps


Colin is taking a week of vacation and we are going to Chiang Rai on Sunday (northern Thailand near the Burma border).  This should be a very scenic area with forests and hills/mountains; the weather will be cool.  Plus I convinced Colin that we just have to spend New Years in Hong Kong.  So we are going to spend four nights in Hong Kong.  I am beyond excited about visiting Hong Kong.